Hungary - August 2000

The Hungarian-operated 65-seat Russian hydrofoil TFB 'Vöcsök IV' provided a four-hour Danube journey from Vienna to Budapest via Bratislava.  A relaxed approach allowed some of the 50 passengers to sunbathe on top before departure and during passage of two large locks, also to take photos through open doors on each side and have buffet meals and drinks served by two young ladies.  It was spectacular leaving Austria (Hainburg an der Donau), passing Esztergom (Roman Catholic basilica) and Viségrad (fortress), this is the area where the north bank changes from Slovakia to Hungary at the Danube Bend. Entering the capital was of course wonderful.

I won't list all the exciting sights in Budapest though nearly all were seen, from the outside at least; photographic albums official and professional show these much better.  The one disappointment was not taking a steam bath, time ran out.  As well as excursions on the trams, metros, funicular, and HÉV suburban railway, courtesy of 14-day transport pass there were several special days worth mentioning. 

The second full day saw me on a main line steam excursion with 424,287 a well known oil-fired MÁV (state railway) 4-8-0 of 1956, up the first railway in Hungary to Vac then Szob on the Danube Bend, near the Slovak frontier - used to be Hungary till WW1.  Then it was 'play by ear', found an hourly car ferry over the Danube and walked with a lost French accountant 1km to the main road after the ferryman explained (in German) the bus location and time.  This allowed a couple of hours in Esztergom then traced the (distant) railway station in searing heat for railbus home.  

MÁV steam reappeared near the end of the holiday at a new steam park only open one month, I'm now a tiszteletbeli mozdonyveztöje (honorary engine driver) after taking charge of 375,562 a 1923 air-braked 2-6-2T on a short run with my time-served assistant.  Couldn't miss that chance after so many years!  A coal-fired Cl.424 was also running but slightly better controlled.  The price included 61 year old railbus transport from the city.  The best (only?) English speaker was a Ganz-Mavag engineer who had served in Pakistan, no doubt in what they call the socialist days.  

Naturally the more static Budapest Technical Museum was visited, and a full guided tour was provided by the friendly Urban Public Transport Museum at Szentendre, found by accident.  Only the Underground Museum at Deák tér (Deák Square) was missed.  The main destination that day was the Open Air Museum 3km out, many buildings from five of Hungary's ten regions have been lovingly restored complete with interiors, many with thatched roofs - willingly spent five hours there.  The majority are open with OAPs to answer questions.

A circular tour by metro, tram and rack railway reached the Buda hills for a ride on the Children's Railway (ex Pioneers' Railway).  No toy but a proper MÁV 12km public service with 760mm gauge Romanian diesels - full sized drivers.  However it was good to see a 14-year-old boy serve me with the equivalent of the BR APTIS ticketing computer, in England if on a station he would be more likely be hanging around annoying people.  At the final destination a uniformed young lady of about 13 running the office served me with a proper edmondson (card) ticket and did far better with English than her main-line elder sisters.  A stiff climb through the woods was followed by a picnic at the Elizabeth (Erzsébet) lookout tower on the highest point locally, before an easier ride down via the well-known Libegö chairlift with a good views down to the Danube.  

A long enjoyable green walk was also possible on Margit-sziget (Margaret Island), its large protected area with many flowers is only a short distance from the urban bustle, and is popular with locals also. Cars are banned but there is access via cross-Danube bridges at each end and also frequent bus 26 from Nyugati station.

Lake Balaton was an obvious destination for a sunny full day out with early start, managed to do the complete circle, returning from Keszthely (pronounced Kesthay) by InterCity (air-conditioned).  Lots of Hungarians and Germans on holiday everywhere.  The run back to Vienna via EuroCity was the third and final long run, touching the Danube at Komárom, the only bridges in miles crossing to Komárno (Slovakia) and stopping at the city of Györ.  

The final full day was also a day to remember, no transport connection except red, white and green flags on everything that moved, and a metro worthy of rush-hour Tokyo.  To celebrate my departure, street lights were extinguished, balloons launched and a long and spectacular late evening firework display launched over the Danube to an equally large audience, including us by the parliament.  By coincidence, 20 August is national day and Hungary is 1000 years old.  

Hungary is certainly an exciting, friendly and sunny country for visitors, less negative behaviour directly encountered than in the UK.  The only word of caution is that in spite of professional and interesting marketing at country level (and no doubt in the overpriced hotels etc), needs haven't fed through to other aspects with 'Hungarian only' in many locations and noone to help.  Metros run with some tickets explained but little navigational help (fele means direction but you only learn that by experience).  Written rail material other than station arrival/departure boards is non-existent, Keleti and Nyugati have unacceptable queues, trains often run unmarked and it took three hours over two days to purchase a timetable released ten weeks earlier.  The Czechs have faults but manage better!   

On a more positive note many Budapest women looked sensational in the heat, quite a distraction - slim with long hair popular. The city is certainly now the west's main link with the east, it's certainly thought-provoking to sit at Keleti seeing departures for Munich, Cologne, Vienna, Venice and Paris (Orient Express) and then Kyiv (Kiev), Lviv (Lvov), Moscow, Bucharest, Cluj-Napoca, Szczecin, Warsaw, Prague and Bratislava.  

Hungary needed lots of effort - but felt full of energy on return, an excellent sign!